I just created the Bazzite Box (Low Cost Steam Machine)

Hi bud, version 3 case is out already, this will have slightly better cooling as I have opened up the exhaust slot more, also at a minimum, replace the thermal compound with PTM7950.

Also in a few weeks I will have the AIO version of my case released, this will look the same, just slightly larger, I hit a wall with what we can do with air cooling and with a overclocking capabilities of the CPU and GPU, I need to step up to a real thermal solution, so its a 240 AIO: NexGen3D: AIO Mount for the BC-250 by NexGen-3D-Printing | Download free STL model | Printables.com

A little teaser of the upcoming Liquid cooled edition:

  • 240mm AIO Liquid Cooler
  • Meanwell LOP-500/600-12 Powersupply
  • Corsair Commander Duo Fan and ARGB Controller (Controlled through OpenLinkHub)

I noticed you were looking for feedback on the slim fan shroud from some of us who “scooped” our fins on the heat sink. The slim shroud fits the top “deck” of the fin-stack but catches on the ‘nib’ that are raised from where the top fins interlocked together.

My calipers show the top of the fin-stack 32.7mm from the bottom of the card. The nibs are 34mm from the bottom. So a difference of 1.3mm.

Hi bud,

Thanks for the feedback, I have a few others also say its a little tight, unfortunately if I shave off any more it will start to compromise the strength, all I can suggest is just bend those little tab bits over slightly to allow the mount to slide on easily.

Hey there, can you send me the same info on the molex connector for the psu switch? and what is the expected behavior when you push the button? Simply the power cuts? The system shuts down? Is there a way to ensure that the system does a proper shut down when the button is pushed?

Hey NexGen3D, this is an awesome project thankyou. I have just started to compile the STL files for printing but i cannot find the TPU upper and lower gaskets in the files. Also have dug abit into how to setup the bios and steam os on bazzite. I have found another guide with a custom BIOS would you recommend this process? Pocket Adventures.com

Unfortunately you cant, the switch just shuts off the powersupply, it wont work like a normal PC, if you want to soft turn off, then you will need to use the button on the back near the USB ports, and when you do this, the powersupply will still be powered on, and will consume 5 to 10w and the fan will still run, this is what the front power button is for, I turn mine off from the Steam Menu, then just press the button to kill the PSU, when you want to power up, just hit the button to powerup the the PSU and this will auto power on the board, I’m waiting on my LOP-600 to arrive so I can test its smart power sense feature, if this works as expected, it should eliminate the need for the front power button, or one could install a momentary button and connect that in parallal to the rear power button.

Hi bud, the TPU gaskets are not needed anymore, they were very early versions, everything required is now on Printables, this is how you install the fan mount: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-utAYMynzc

BIOS Flashing and setup information is here: BIOS Flashing Guide - AMD BC250 Documentation

Use V3 BIOS not V5.

For setting up Bazzite on the BC-250, just install like you would for any other PC, then once its up and running, use my script to install GPU overclocking, ram fixes and other tweaks: GitHub - NexGen-3D-Printing/SteamMachine: Information and fixes for my DIY Steam Machine using the BC-250

After thats done, then install the ACPI tables so the power modes work correctly:

git clone GitHub - bc250-collective/bc250-acpi-fix: Fix bc250's acpi table
cd bc250-acpi-fix
mkdir -p /tmp/acpi_tables/kernel/firmware/acpi
cp *.aml /tmp/acpi_tables/kernel/firmware/acpi/.
cd /tmp/acpi_tables
find kernel | cpio -H newc --create > SSDT_ACPI.cpio
sudo cp SSDT_ACPI.cpio /boot/.
echo ‘GRUB_EARLY_INITRD_LINUX_CUSTOM=“../../SSDT_ACPI.cpio”’ | sudo tee -a /etc/default/grub
ujust regenerate-grub
systemctl reboot

After thats completed, you can install CPU over clocking:

rpm-ostree install stress
git clone GitHub - bc250-collective/bc250_smu_oc: CPU Overclocking Tools for AMD BC-250
cd bc250_smu_oc
pip install .

My recommend CPU OC/UV settings: bc250-detect --frequency 3850 --vid 1135 --temp 80 --keep

Information on CPU overclocking here: GitHub - bc250-collective/bc250_smu_oc: CPU Overclocking Tools for AMD BC-250

Hopefully that answers all your questions.

So I went down the rabbit hole and looked at the information you linked to, its a all very much outdated, the only good recommendation on there is to go check out Old Lamers videos, who I know and have provided some assistance to for his last couple of videos, specifically the ones on overclocking.

I also went and looked at the case they were pushing, that thing would overheat like crazy, very poor thermal design.

The information mentioned above is the latest, both CPU and GPU can be overclocked, undervolted and thermally limited, we now control the hardware through the SMU, so we have full access to the hardware.

My case design cools everything, including the VRAM with just one fan, and you can tune it for high performance if you’re okay with fan noise, or you can tune it for silence at the cost of some performance, you can even go for a quieter fan and still get good performance out if like this guy: https://youtu.be/zi7sldeRd2w

Sweet thanks mate :slight_smile: Im very keen on the watercooled version.

Yeah i figured as much looked like a very inefficent design which is why i asked. Just 1 more quick question would Straight PC for the Fan mount. PETG HF for the exterior hexagons panels and ASA for the main case be ok? Just trying to use what i have lol

Yes I’m still working on the AIO version, I sold that many cases through my website, I don’t have any filament left to print my own prototype out :slight_smile: have more coming now, was not expecting to sell so many.

Yes there is a few really bad designs out there, yes all of those materials are fine, to be honest, PETG is probably fine for the fan mount, but I like to go with more durable materials in these locations, so PC or ASA will be perfect, and PETG for the hex panels are perfect, they actually give good impact protection, good for when you drag it around or throw it in a back pack.

Below is the final AIO mount design for the Thermalright Aqua Elite 240 AIO, will fit many others as well:

Thanks so much for your help! I look forward to see what you do with the LOP-600. Might switch my power supply if you have luck with that. Keep posting your work. I love it!

Thanks Mate :slight_smile: Appreciate it

Hello,

First thank you for all your hard work this cases looks great! Just have one question :slight_smile: i only can find METALFISH Flex 300W is this sufficient power supply for this project ofc without any overclocking?

So weird, I just finally got the BC250 and PSU in the case and my temps went up by about 7-9 degrees. Is it a thermal paste issue? I was getting 60-63 degrees on both GPU and CPU during gameplay before I closed up the case. Now it’s 68-71 on avg. Thoughts?

Yes, 300w will be okay, but recommend UV the CPU and keeping the GPU at 1850 to 2000 Mhz max.

Its normally for the temps to go up a little, you’re trapping it inside a box, would be impossible for the APU itself to go down in temps, what you have to consider is now the entire board is receiving airflow, Id expect it to be somewhere around 5C hotter, but you vram will now be cooler

Thank you sir! I know in some of your posts you mentioned an exhaust port for the case. Is that the opening where the fan blades are? If so, I know you mentioned to have the fan push air into the fins. Right now I feel air push out the USB hub area (as I don’t yet have the USB hub installed). Secondly, what could I expect in terms of cooling gains when I replace the thermal paste and thermal pads?

I would put some tape over the USB hub hole for now, as air should be coming out the exhaust port as this cools the VRAM nodules, and yes, I recommend replacing the TIM on the APU with PTM7950, and if you can replace the thermal pads with 2mm ones, and use putty on the VRAM modules, there are links on my Printables page for these items, if they’re not available in your region, just use the links for reference.