Sorry if I missed this in a previous post or on the printables page, but I’m wondering how you route the cable from the usb hub to the usb port on the back of the bc250.
If your using the old rear case version, there is some little cutouts above the USB ports, this is for the cable to route through, if you have the newer version, then you use these 180 degree adaptors: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3QXDxr5
This one specifically:
Please post a photo of the rear of your case so I can see which version you printed.
Thanks so much! Looks like I have the old version with the circular holes above the usb ports.
I only uploaded the 180 adaptor version recently, but they are both there, some do not want to spend $5 on the adaptor, so I left the OG version on there as well, the one you printed works perfectly fine, I still use this version on one of mine, if you want USB 3, then route your cable through the USB 2 hole and plug the HUB usb connector into the USB 3 port.
I just picked uo a huge back of these in bulk and will be looking to just include at least one in the case I sell.
im using Amazon.com: ACEMAGICIAN Kron Mini K1 Mini PC, Ryzen 7 7730U, 32GB DDR4 512GB SSD Mini Computers (8C/16T, up to 4.5Ghz),4K Triple Display Desktop WiFi6/Bluetooth, Compact Silent PC for Light Gaming, Office, Design : Electronics so far has been a amazing steam machine using bazite!
At $399 it’s almost worth just buying it for the RAM at today’s memory prices!
Yes, they are nice little machine, I had a Minis Forum one with similar specs, I have review in this forum somewhere for it, the only issue is the iGPU, they are similar to the performance of the Steam Deck, a little more powerful, but they are not anywhere in the same league as BC-250, the CPU however, is excellent, but they are more suited to 720p gaming with lighter older titles can game at 1080p with lower settings, the BC-250 is very similar to an RX 6600, so it has some solid 1080p/1440p performance even in newer titles, its pretty much a 1080p Medium to High Settings locked 60fps.
DIY Steam Machine Pro - Liquid Cooled Edition
Do you have any resources for replacing the thermal pads and compound replacing it with PTM? I did see this video, but wondering if you have any other tutorials. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvuVozx1V-8
No, buts a simple task, I have links to 2mm pads and the the PTM7950.
I just replace all the pads on the top side with 2mm, I use some thermal putty for the Vram modules and PTM7950 for the APU, should look like the following on the top side:
Its a pretty simple task, the 2mm comes in a large sheet and make sure to cut enough of the PTM7950 to cover the core, but smaller than the out shim of the APU, as in my picture, you can use thermal paste, but its not as good.
Also the trick with PTM is to keep it in the fridge, and apply it quickly in a cool environment.
ok, i cleaned the board with 99% Isopropyl alcohol and added the pads, and K5-pro to the VRMS on the bottom of the board and now it won’t post. Looks like there’s a gap between the heatsink and the ptm7950. not sure how to solve this. I reseated the screws and was able to close the gap but now my temps are through the roof 89-90+ in game on the gpu and cpu. It has to be the ptm7950 right? What should I do at this point?
I honestly don’t know what you have done here, no it wont be the PTM, sounds like the heatsink is not seating all the way down, if there is a gap, the pads are holding it off, something is not right, I have done three of these, and all worked out perfect, many others have done this as well.
If I can’t get these temps down, can I use the k5pro or other thermal paste?
No not use putty on the VRM’s it gets too hot and will make a mess, just use putty on the rear where its easier to clean off, there is also too many things you can potentially short on the VRM side, you can try increasing the clamping pressure by changing the 4 M3 bolts with the springs, to standard button head M3 bolts, with some M3 washers, just reuse the springs, and you can tighten down the heat sink a little more, this works well with PTM, but I still think the pads are a little too thick, they should be 2mm, you need to make sure you have them all in the correct position, and all old pads have been removed from the heatsink.
Ok, I have used the 2mm pads (the thickest ones in the pack you recommended - those were the correct ones right?) and I placed them exactly as in your pic. I’ve used the k5pro on the back of the card on the 8 chips - was this correct? I will not use putty on the main chip.
AI advised:
“Let the card run a heavy benchmark or game for 15–30 minutes. Let it get hot (even 90°C). Then, shut the system down completely and let it cool back to room temperature. This “cures” the material, sucking the heatsink closer to the die as the air is pushed out. Your temps often drop 10°C–15°C after the first two heat cycles.”
What do you think about the AI advice? I worry about over tightening the 4 bolts with springs. Any danger of breaking the PCB doing so? Also, thank you so much for your help on this!
here is a pic of the card after I ran it for 30 mins.
You definitely don’t have enough pressure, the pads may be slightly thicker, wouldn’t surprise me from some el cheapo brand from Amazon, I ended up clamping mine using some M3 Button head screws, the stock ones have shaft on them to stop you from screwing them down more, try some normal button head M3 bolts, use some washers and reuse the springs, you can tighten down to when you start seeing the board slightly bend/deform, also make sure the back plate M3 bolts are fully wound in, replace them with normal M3 hex bolts if you need too, they also might not be compressing the pads all the way down.
PTM does require more clamping pressure than thermal paste, but I can see you don’t have full contact, don’t touch the PTM, as it will melt into place as it heats up, and this is what they refer to for cycling, it does improve as you use, but you should get almost identical results as paste on initial run.
If you have a 3D printer, you can print your self some washers to slip over the heatsink stand offs, to replace the nylon stock ones, you make them thicker, 2 or 3mm thick, and use those if you do not want to replace the stock spring screws, I also did this on one of my boards to increase clamping pressure, it worked fine, but that is now running the Liquid cooled setup.
Something else to note, there is like 3 variations of this stock heat sink we have identified, I have no idea what is different, but we can tell from the finstack before opening, that they’re from different manufacturers.
Ok, I’ve used some m3 bolts and the old springs. I’ve got them all the way down (see attached pic) and my temps are lower but still higher than before the PTM and thermal pad change. (GPU 72-76, CPU 80-89 avg in game) The only step I think I could take is to get even shorter m3 bolts and really bend the card. What do you think?
Here’s the first pic (I can only add 1 pic per post)
