First off this is an amazing little project! Thanks for your hard work NexGen3D! I have the FSP500-30AS Flex PSU and looked up the pin-out. The switch is working but does anyone know what size Molex connector I need to make a permanent connection between the switch and the PSU? I prefer non-destructive methods when I build project but the first two molex connectors I bought were too small for the 10-pin connector on the PSU.
Is there any way I can print on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini with an 180mm bed? 
Iām sorry bud, but no, I really had to work hard for it to be supported on a 220mm3 build area, I had to already create a bunch of additional parts, the 180mm3 is just too small.
PM Sent bud, the guys in the Discord channel may be able to help as I donāt use these PSUās
I have the Adventurer 5M and got it to fit in orca slicer by following these steps. Thanks so much!
Is the fan in BIOS set to standard? I have Arctic 12 Pro PST and in standard mode it is loud, running at high speed, maybe itās better to reduce it in IDLE?
I did my testing in standard mode as I had reset the cmos so many times during ram overclocking, I got sick of setting up the fan profile, but yes, set a custom one, the P12 Pro is hard to slow down as its quite efficient, if you play around, you can get it down to 800 to 900rpm, this makes it silent, and only have it ramp to 40% when over 60C, and 100 at 80C, which is the last setting, called critical, no point having run up loud when not needed, I think it runs at 10 to 15% on idle when I setup the fan profile.
Also, I highly recommend and OC with UV when using air cooling, my recommended CPU settings are 3850Mhz with 1125mv and if you install the ACPI tables, then set the powersave or optimal setting in KDE, it will clock down to 800mhz per core at idle.
Also if you are after a silent machine, I have an upcoming AIO version of this case, it is bigger though and uses this AIO mount: NexGen3D: AIO Mount for the BC-250 by NexGen-3D-Printing | Download free STL model | Printables.com
Do you have any guide how to install ACPI tables?
Not yet, I will be making a script for this, along with CPU overclocking.
Is there a reason the hex covers have to be printed with PETG? If I just print them in PLA is that going to damage the overall build at all?
I just dislike PLA, its a rubbish non-permanent plastic, specially in hotter climates like here in Australia, you can use it for the intake (top), sides and vertical stand, but you wont be able to use it for the exhaust (bottom) as the heat from the exhaust slot will most likely warp/melt PLA.
I have now added more how too guides and images to the bottom of the Printables project page, this should help some of you who need assistance.
Just scroll all the way down and you will see everything.
First of all, thank you so much for the fantastic model. Iāve been following your progress and have started printing out the V3 version of the case as youāve been adding STL files to printables.
I have two hopefully simple questions:
- Can you explain how the static pressure booster is mounted with the fan? I printed the fan mount and have opened up the fins for a 120mm noctua fan, but it wasnāt obvious where I was supposed to put the pressure booster.
- Is there a trick to getting the BC250 to slide into the rails of the case? I see the grooves on both halves and have tried to force the PCB to slide underneath and Iāve ended up either breaking those little rails and/or sending the card through the holes meant for the IO in the back, forcing me to reprint the case 3x. Maybe my PCB is taller than others or something, but short of adding some negative modifiers in bambu studio to make more space in those grooves I canāt see how Iām going to make it fit.
Thanks again, looking forward to putting this all together.
The static pressure booster slots into the fan mount, if you look at the booster, there is a lip on one side, that lip faces the heat sink it will mate into the mount perfectly, and sit flush and should look like this:
Now those slots are not for the PCB, they are for the Aluminium backplate, they slot in, the PCB is above the slots, see the follow image:
As you can see the PCB sits above the slots, and the back plate slides in, everything will fit perfectly with next to no force required.
@NexGen3D Perfect, that makes much more sense. Iāll print out the pressure booster and drop that in. Iāve been trying to shove the PCB into those rails and failing spectacularly, makes sense that it was never meant to go in there.
Once its inserted in via the back plate, you will see there is a gap between the back plate and the inside of the case, this is the air flow path that cools that back plate as the air leaves the bottom exhaust slot.
Hey question for everyone. Could I use a Noctua NF-A12x25 or should I get the NF-F12 for the high static pressure? My first steam machine I built was loud with the Artic but I didnāt follow Nex gen and replace the TIM and thermal pads.
You will need a high static pressure fan, I dont think the NF-A12x25 will be good enough, also if you replace the TIM with PTM, and undervolt the CPU, set a thermal limit for the GPU, and then set a better fan profile in the BIOS the machine should be quiet, specially if you lock it to 60FPS, mine would never go over 70C and fan would be 30 to 40% most of the time while gaming, and 10 to 20% when idle.
As soon as you let it run over 60FPS, it will give you everything it has which drives up the clocks and the temps.
My recommended settings to try:
CPU = 3850Mhz at 1125mv thermal limit of 85C (Reduce the thermal limit if you want it running cooler)
GPU = 2200Mhz at 1040mv thermal limit of 85C (Reduce the thermal limit if you want it running cooler)
Fan Profile = 30C/10% 50C/20% 60C/30% 70C/40% Critical Temp 80C (this is 100%)
You may need to increase the CPU voltage to 1135 or 1150mv but try 1125mv first, this a nice undervolt and a clock boost it will run faster and cooler, allowing the GPU it boost higher for longer, or you can limit and it will run cooler.
I also recommend running my setup script if you have done this, the governor is a thermal throttling one, unlike Oberon.
I love your script! Only problem is since the first build I didnāt change the thermal paste and pads it would overheat. Also I truly belive that not using your method for heat sink bit me in the butt as well. I used the scooper to lift them up instead and the slim Fan mount. That thing is tight! Iāll Be follow all instructions on my 2nd build.
Any one have a vid of them using the scissor method for the heatsink?
Another question! Should I wait for the V3 Case or start printing the next build?
Thanks again!