I just uploaded a new fan mount and pressure booster for this project:
Was wondering if supports are needed to print out the case itself, was planning on printing the case and fan mount with CA6-CF and the rest with PETG, but if I need supports for the case, that would make it awkward to remove.
Hi sshad98, thanks for taking an interest in my project 
Definitely no supports are needed for anything, I avoid those as much as possible, everything in this project just prints, as long as you have position it correctly.
I assume you mean PA6-CF? If so, thatās an overkill for this, its totally not required, not unless you want to place the machine under the hood of your car I recommend PETG-CF for the case, but normal PETG, or if you can print it, ABS as a low cost alternative, but I would reserve PA6-CF for smaller parts that require Nylon, Iāve been testing the new fan mount and pressure booster in PETG-CF and it looks like they are perfectly fine as well.
My reason for recommending PETG for the case is the thin walls, I designed it with PETG in mind as it has really good layer adhesion, materials like Nylon are not great for that, and PETG has really good impact resistance for the price, making the case durable so it can be lugged around the house, or even thrown in a backpack if you want a portable PC for lan parties, gaming events, drag it to friends house etc.
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Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it, love your project. I was looking to buy some filament and saw SUNLU PA6-CF for cheap so I thought might as well, and dip my toes on this material, I guess I will try it for the fun of it since I already opened it and put it my drier, if the print doesnāt come out good I did order some ABS as well from china which I can use.
Make sure to dry it at 80 to 90C for about 12hrs or more, the dryer the better, donāt use a normal active filament dry box to dry it, or it will take a week, you need minimum 80C, I use a fan forced oven set it 80C and leave it for 24hrs then it will print good, it needs to be under 20% moisture level.
Have been printing Nylons for nearly a decade now, and there is a reason people donāt like it, I also only print this stuff if the printer has an active chamber heater and its why I created these: NexGen3D: Chamber Heater V2 by NexGen-3D-Printing | Download free STL model | Printables.com
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Could someone help me understand how the front power switch should be wired to the psu? I bought the Yakamoz @NextGen3D recommended. Thanks for any help!
The switch is to be wired directly into the 24 pin plug, first jump on google and find a pinout image for a standard ATX 24 Pin Plug.
Switch Wire Code:
Green = Common (C)
Blue = Normally Open (NO)
Yellow = Normally Closed (NC) - This is not used
Red = 12v - Power for the LED Ring
Black - Ground - Power for the LED Ring
Green and Black got to Ground on the 24 Pin Plug
Blue goes to the PS_ON on the 24 Pin Plug
Red goes to 12v on the 24 Pin Plug
Thatās it, all done, when you push the latching button in, the PSU will turn on, and the LED ring will light up.
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Thanks for the Advice, The filament came in at 15% humidity, my drier goes up to 70C, run it for about 18 hours and it didnāt drop below 13%, kept the drier on throughout the print as I can feed the filament directly from my drier, so far printed the fan shroud and the front part of the case, they came out really good flawless from the outside some minor defects inside, here is the time lapse Watch BC250 Case Front | Streamable
The fan shroud printing struggled with the top bit of the bridging printing midair, nothing serious just a bit rough.
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Thatās the key to printing that stuff nice, the dryer the better, looks excellent, at least you know if you leave it the car, it wont melt into a puddle of goop in the suns heat
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I have just uploaded a video on my YouTube channel showcasing the performance of this machine running Bazzite:
Have you checked the GDDR6 temperatures? Iāve seen some people add additional cooling to the back of the BC-250, such as a heat sink, to cool the back.
Yes I have done lots of thermal testing with K-types, on the NVME and in several places on the back plate, my case actively cools the back plate, most of the air coming into the case, is forced around and over the back plate in order to leave the case, my VRAM hits a maximum of 42C Under heavy benchmarking while overclocked to 1875Mhz and drops to 36C at idle with an ambient room temp of around 23C.
Thanks so much for the detailed guide on everything. I just had one question on eta prime video it says the case uses a rail system so you donāt need screws. What would be the benefit of those copper fittings.
The board slides into the case into some rails, that is separate to the threaded inserts, theyāre for holding the case together, without them, it would just fall apart, the threaded inserts are for securing the outer hex panels, which hold the two halves of the case together, its all integral.
I use threaded inserts, so you can take it apart, and put it back together, over and over, it makes it last longer, screwing into plastic, is sometimes a one shot deal, and I donāt like that, I want a thing I can maintain, Iām an ex Mechanical Technician, I prefer things that can be taken apart, repair, serviced, and put back together with minimal fuss and it needs to be reliable and repeatable.
These inserts are like nuts, they are just pulled into place when you tighten the bolts, so no need for heating them into place, you can use any type, but the ones I recommend are the best, and they 100% fit perfectly.
Hello, I saw on your page that you donāt recommend buying 600 watt metalfish PSU. Unfortunately I discovered your page after I bought it. It something wrong with this model of PSU or you not recommend it for other reasons? Thx in advance.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news,
Unfortunately you will not be able to fire it up, nothing I could do to get it to turn on the BC-250, as soon as you try to pull power from it, it will go into some sort of OCP and shutdown, its a known problem with it, and I too found out after the fact, I completely took it apart, and tried everything, I eventually went outside with it, and dropped it in the rubbish bin and moved on, cost me a day of messing about, and a chunk of cash, I just kept the wiring from it.
Well, thatās unfortunate, but mine is actually working. Maybe yours PSU was defective? Or they changed something in manufacturing it recently.
Quite possible they did, mine wasnāt faulty, a few of us had purchased them, all had the same issue, they work when connected to a proper motherboard, just would not work properly when jumping the PS_ON to ground and trying to power the board through the PCI-E connector.
I wrecked mine trying to force it stay on, so it was suitable to keep and use on something else, so I recommend what I know works, I personally like the LOP-400, but I donāt really want to recommend this as its not for the average DIYāer to mess about with, if I hadnāt have decided to support 220mm3 printers, I would have gone with SFX PSUās.
Which would you recommend, the METALFISH 500W or the MEAN WELL LOP-300-12? With the fans, plugs, and cabling installed, the LOP-300-12 is similar in price to the METALFISH 500. Iām wondering which one to buy (Iām currently using an external ATX).
100% the 500w Metalfish, its a solid little PSU, fan is a little loud, but you can replace it later with a Noctua, but I have pushed it up to 380w on this board, the cheaper PSU, hit 410 under same load, so its way more efficient and the LOP-300 doesnāt have enough power if you want to OC this thing.
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