Changing grub font, theme

The text in the grub menu is very small and I can barely read the options. In addition to wanting to bump the font size, I wouldn’t mind giving it a new theme. I think I found how to generate fonts but I need GRUB_THEME= and GRUB_FONT=.

I found a Grub theming guide for Silverblue / Ublue thread but it refers to /etc/default/grub for these, which seems to have been superseded.

How is customising grub done nowadays?